Last October, after the first three weeks of starting the ritual of surfing Roaring Beach everyday, I had assumed that it would end on the first year anniversary of the Peace Fire, April 6. Obviously, this date has come and gone and I still find myself walking down to the beach each day dressed up in my wet suit, carrying flippers and boogie board.
The intention, now, is to continue through autumn and winter until the full year comes around in October.
My motivation: simply to keep learning what can come out of a devotion to a sacred discipline.
The end goal of having surfed through a winter at Roaring Beach is not important.
What is important, is to:
– walk through the wall of inertia that confronts me each day;
– to understand how water is an extended part of my being rather than an environmental border to be crossed;
– to become more aware of the many languages spoken through the medium of water;
and, most importantly,
– to learn to love this world ever deeper by being more conversant with its many moods.
Besides, what a privilege and blessing it is just to live here at Windgrove and be able to embark upon this little pilgrimage to the beach each and every day.
How many people get a chance to surf 200 days in their whole lives, let alone 200 days in a row?
Then again, maybe I’m the only one who wants to.
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